The Seed Cathedral

I have moved!

Again, due to the posting and viewing limitations of blogspot accounts behind the Great Firewall of China, I have decided to move to Wordpress, which IS viewable inside China.

Here is the new link edwardinshanghai.wordpress.com

I'll be making another trip to Shanghai in a week, so look forward to more updates!

Shanghai Sculpture Space: Red Town

One of my favourite things about Shanghai is the public's embrace of the artistic and cultural. I think it's something do with the history of the city and its many influences over the years.

The Shanghai Sculpture Space is a newly developed area for sculptural arts. There are public works for all to see and interact with and there is no admission to this little paradise within the city. From the looks of it during my trip in 2010, it is pretty brand new, not all the buildings are filled with tenants yet. But it is definitely completed enough to warrant a good exploration.

Aside from the many and ever changing public displays, there are small cafes, restaurants, art galleries and outlet shops in this center. I reckon this place will be crawling with tourists in a few years.

The Definitive Guide to Clubbing in Shanghai

There is something about Shanghai that you may or may not know, but the nightlife in the city is absolutely off the wall. A combination of a huge population, a growing middle class, non-existent alcohol laws, and an anything goes mentality all contribute to an epic party culture in Shanghai. Actually most of mainland China is like this so this guide applies to more than just Shanghai, but it seems like SH is just the epi-center and focal point of it all. So if you haven't partied in China, you'll be in for a pleasant surprise!

The hottest club in Shanghai right now. No. 88

The clubbing culture in China is unlike any other in the world. If you are a seasoned club-er in America or Europe, you won't quite understand what's going on in China without a little explanation. I'll break down the Shanghai clubbing culture into three sections for easy digestion. Some background info first, some etiquette to ensure a good time, and finally some recommendations on the hottest clubs in the city circa 2010. (New clubs spring up and old clubs close down faster than babies are born in China)

10 Fast Facts:

1. You can party any day of the week. Go on a Monday? No problem, it will be just as packed as a Saturday night.  
2. Nearly all clubs don't charge cover. 
3. There are no lineups or ID checks to get into the clubs. 
4. Security is fierce, even if it doesn't seem like it. Some of them wear bullet proof vests! Don't start stupid shit or you'll be dragged outside and beat down kung fu style. Yes, I've seen this first hand!
5. Some clubs won't allow photography. Those are usually the craziest clubs. I guess their mentality is, "What happens in there, stays in there." I'd leave my camera at home.
6. Most mainstream clubs now play American Top 40. Lady Gaga, 50 cent, Beyonce.
7. There is a loyal following of House/Progressive/Trance/Electronic music DJs in the city as well. So if you're European or just into that, you're in luck.
8. Local Chinese girls are hot like you wouldn't believe. I've lived overseas for 19 years and I have never seen girls of that calibre. This applies to more Northern China like Shanghai, Sichuan, and Beijing. Less so in Guangzhou I think. 
9. With hotness comes prostitution. Yes, some of those friendly ladies won't be all over you just because you're so fine. Believe it. Some people there are trying to make a living unfortunately. Try to keep a clear head... unless you're into that sort of thing...
10. Not all clubs have a big central dance floor! This was a real shocker to me at first but read on and you'll see how it works.

There is a real liberal mentality about partying in Shanghai. No cover, no lineups, in and out as you wish. Often times you can hit up 3-4 clubs in one night until you find one with the right vibe for you. Club hopping is the norm if you are new to the city and haven't found your hideout yet. Locals usually find one particular club they like, stick to it, and become friends with the PR managers who will hook you up with anything from free drinks, free fruit platters, or free lady friends. Have fun, stay safe, and don't get involved in anything stupid. 

Go-go dancers inside Park 97. Most clubs will have dancers and singers throughout the night. 

Liquor Etiquette: 

1. Number #1 rule. Don't buy drinks. Buy a bottle. Drinks prices are expensive and comparable to overseas. $5-10USD for a rum&coke, gin&tonic, or a Budweiser. But more importantly, thats not how it works in Shanghai! The thing to do here is to buy a bottle of Chivas, Jack Daniels, or Ballentine's plus things to mix it with like green tea, juices, or sodas.
2. Okay, I'll buy a bottle, but which one? Locals here mostly order whiskey and green tea. Not because they are discerning whiskey connoisseurs but because Chivas Royal, Jack Daniels, and Ballentine's did some excellent marketing in China right when the whole club scene started rolling in the early 2000s. Prices range from 580-880RMB a bottle, which is $85-130USD (April 2010 exchange rate). Add the green teas/juices/sodas needed to mix drinks, you're looking at about another 300-550RMB ($45-80USD) depending on if you want to finish the bottle that night. Don't worry if you can't finish a whole bottle of that whiskey. You can get the waiters to save the bottle for you next time. They measure how much is left, and give you a card for your next visit. These prices I listed are for the more expensive clubs in Shanghai. Prices usually go down from there, especially if you are in other less expensive cities. 
3. So what drinks do I recommend? That entirely depends on your budget. The cheapest way to go bottle wise would be to get a Jack Daniels and some green tea. A whole night on that would be about 580RMB plus mixers which would set you back another 200-300RMB. Stay away from Chivas because there are a lot of fake Chivas whiskeys in China. Another way to go, and what I usually go for, is to buy VSOP cognac. Remy Martin or Hennessy. Plus it tastes way smoother with green tea than whiskeys! Prices are surprisingly reasonable in the 880RMB range. So then it's $85USD for a Jack Daniels or $125 for a VSOP cognac. Here in Canada, a JD goes for $40 at a liquor store and a Remy VSOP goes for $100. You be the judge. 
4. Alcohol is expensive in Shanghai then! Imported luxury goods usually are heavily taxed in China. But buying a bottle + mixers will set you back a total of between 900-1500RMB. Split that between 2-3 buddies and you're looking at a maximum of ~$50USD/person so it's really not as bad as you might think. You could very well spend that amount on a half dozen beers plus other drinks. Again, if you can't finish the bottle, you can save it for next time. Buying a bottle and sharing it with a couple of friends is the best way to go. 

The whole idea behind the liquor etiquette section is for you to blend in with the locals. Foreigners carrying a gin&tonic walking around looking for fun are almost always ignored by locals and end up partying with other foreigners. Not the point really. When in Rome, do what the Romans do. When in China, eat Chinese food. Don't be like that guy who goes to China and eats KFC. Be adventurous! 

The two storey mega club of G-Plus. 

Table Etiquette:

1. Find a table or your home base to work from. The whole point to buying a bottle is to land a table. Remember when I said there wasn't one big dance floor? Thats because the club is littered with tiny tables for standing and big couches for lounging. That's how it works here. People mingle, drink, and dance around each other's tables. That's how it all gets started. There are elevated dance platforms throughout most clubs, so if you really need to get your groove on there's that. But if you are bopping your head with a drink in your hand in the middle of nowhere, you'll stick out like a sore thumb and be ignored. Trust me. Another reason not to buy drinks in glasses. 
2. Table location. There isn't a do or die rule when it comes to location as compared to deciding between buying drinks or buying a bottle, anything central is probably your best bet if you are new. Most exposure and the best views. :) I would stay away from the couches unless you are there with a big bunch of friends and don't want to mingle with any strangers. The are also more "VIP" and more prone to hooker attacks... unless you're into that sort of thing...
3. After you settle in your table, the bottle is opened, and the drinks are poured for you, then what do you do? Well, this is pretty simple, you either wait for people to come to you or you bring friendly strangers back to your table. Chinese girls are aggressive, especially later in the night. If you are nicely dressed and don't look like a troll, in most cases they will come right up to you. This was a bit of a shocker for me. For some reason, overseas Asian girls have this image of being timid and shy creatures. Not true in China. Having a home base to come back to is also important if you spot a hottie on the other side of the bar. If you strike up a conversation at her table, you can invite her and her friends back to yours and go from there. See how it works? Are you getting the gist of it? 
4. You need to know the two most popular table games in China. Luckily, if you are clubbing in Northern China, you'll only need to know these two and you're fine. If you're in Guangzhou, there are two dozen or more of these games that will get your head spinning! The first game is the most common and is the first game that you will play. It is a dice game, each person gets 5 die and a plastic dice mug to roll the dice in. It is a variation on the popular card game Bullshit. The rules are simple and I will try to dig up a link or write one myself on that later. For now, I'll tell you the second dice game. The second game is even easier, it is a game of luck. I don't know the English name for it, but I'll translate it literally from Chinese and it's called "Fortune Dice". Again, 5 die and a plastic dice mug, players roll at the same time and open up their dice mugs. Poker rules apply except no flushes or straights. 1's or "aces" are highest, five of a kind is the highest. Then four of a kind, three of a kind, two pairs, pair. A free re-roll if you get no pairs. Players roll in the first round, the lower player gets to roll once more. Loser loses when they can't beat their opponent after a re-roll. Hope that makes some sense!  
5. There are a few other things to watch out for other than hookers. PR managers or public-relations managers introduce themselves if they see you by yourselves at your table. If they see you are bored, they will start playing those drinking games with you. Girl PR for a table of guys, Boy PR for a table of girls. They are all attractive professionals. Their nickname in Chinese are "Little Bees" because they buzz around the club looking for people not drinking their expensive liquors and try to accelerate the consumption of those bottles. It's all commerce. Ways to get rid of them is to leave the table or act disinterested. Best way to get rid of them is to not be bored and find some strangers to play with. :P 

Prestige is a big deal in Asian cultures. There is a reason why the Louis Vuitton flagship store in Paris on the Champs de Elysee seem to cater exclusively to Asians. Prestige applies to the clubbing and drinking culture in Shanghai as well. You have to have a certain amount of money to be able to afford a bottle of alcohol. Minimum monthly salary in Shanghai is 1100RMB or ~$160USD. Average college grads earn 2000-4000RMB and that's $300-600USD a month. A bottle and a table gets you instant cred with the locals. Try ordering a bottle of Champagne and it will come with fireworks/sparklers. :) Little things like these goes a long way. Then again, don't be under the illusion that you're the richest guy in there. Unless you parked your Murcielago next to the other half dozen Murcielagos in front of the club, keep your lid on and don't be an ass. Go with the flow and you'll have a great time! 

A Few of the Hottest Clubs in Shanghai:

No.88 during the day. Pretty dank. But totally different during the night. It is right on top of a great restaurant too. So after a good night of drinking and clubbing, you can head downstairs for some delicious foods.

1. No. 88 Bar. The hottest club in Shanghai right now is 88 Bar (pronounced Ba Ba Bar in Mandarin). It is actually a chain across China with bars in Guangzhou, Chengdu, Beijing, and other cities. The interior design is a Pirates of the Caribbean-like theme. Wood tables, dozens of gold chandeliers, insane lighting and sound systems, and elevated dance platforms for customers and performers. This is THE place to go if you want to experience the clubbing culture in Shanghai. 
2. Richy. One of three clubs within 2 mins walking distance in Fuxing Park. Imagine a park in the middle of the city with three huge clubs inside arranged in a triangle all within walking distance. That is Fuxing Park in Shanghai folks. Richy is a 9,0 bar. Meaning that people who go there are students and youngsters born after 1990. Yes, I know. Crazy. There is a huge video screen wall on one side but the club isn't very big. Plan to go there early because it is packed every night 
3. Park 97 another club inside Fuxing Park, is one of the first clubs ever opened in Shanghai or China for that matter. It is more traditional in that it is more western. It has a main dance floor, and there is a huge circular bar in the middle of the club. There are couches but few tables. It is packed with foreigners that don't know what they are doing. Few locals go there. Unattractive people overall but still bouncing.
4. Guandi is the final club inside Fuxing Park. I believe Guandi has a 100RMB cover charge for most nights so it is not always as busy as other clubs. I've been there in 2006 but when I went back this year in 2010, the interior has been re-done. To sum up, hot tubs inside the club. Enuf' said. 
5. G-plus is a huge two storey club located on the 5th floor of a ultra-high end shopping mall. It used to be a pretty happening house/progressive music club that the local enthusiasts flock to, but this time around, it has turned into another "foreigner club". It is big and with a mixture of tables, couches, and a central dance floor.
6. Babyface was the "it" club for a long time all over the country. It is definitely one of the seedier clubs with a lot of hookers and pimps working the joint. You'll see a lot of old businessmen with very young girls partying there. It was under renovation this time around so I didn't go. This club has been around a long time as well. 
7. There are other several prominent ones too such as Muse and Mao, but be weary of other travel sites claiming a certain club as the "it" place. They are most likely "foreigner bars" that really don't give the authentic feel of Shanghai local nightlife.

It is important to find out the address of these clubs before you hop into a taxi. With new bars popping up every month and old ones closing down or moving, cab drivers often don't know where they are unless you tell them the cross streets. The clubs inside Fuxing Park are a constant so you can at least go try out Richy, Park 97, and Guandi. But definitely I would recommend anyone going to Shanghai right now to head to No. 88 Bar. I will try to dig up the addresses of these clubs, but a hotel concierge or a local can probably find out for you by dialling their operator.

So there you have it, an in-depth guide to clubbing in Shanghai. I've had the pleasure of knowledgeable and experienced locals taking me out to these places over the years.  As a society becomes more developed and orderly, places and scenes like this will only begin to disappear. So I highly suggest everyone travelling to Shanghai to experience this part of their culture. It is a culture shock to some and a moral temptation to others, but if you have your head screwed on right, you can have lots of fun without getting yourself in trouble. Be safe!

Shanghai Hotspot: TaiKang Lu

If I could only spend one day in Shanghai, I would not miss the charms of Taikang Lu/Road. It is a small network of alleyways filled with cafes, boutiques, restaurants, art studios, and old residences. Situated in the south of the city in the Luwan district, this semi-hidden neighbourhood is somewhat hard to find on maps and traveler's guides. I first came here in 2007 when it was first being developed and even taxi drivers didn't know where it was then. But nowadays, Taikang Lu has become more and more popular, so asking a local or a cab driver will get you there without problems.

Don't worry. Its growing popularity hasn't harmed any of its charm. Unlike Xintiandi, where it is a faux vintage tourist trap, you will see authentic Shikumen houses with old ladies hanging up their clothes next to chic boutique stores. If you want to beat the weekend crowds, I suggest you come here on a lazy weekday morning, have a coffee at one of many cafes, stroll around the alleyways or lòngtangs (弄堂), do some shopping at the locally designed fashion or souvenir boutiques, explore artist run studios, and feast on a patio lunch while doing some people watching.

Slums of Shaolin

I seemed to have stumbled upon a great blog on all things Shanghai. It is Slums of Shaolin, there you will find a wonderful archive of many great places to visit in Shanghai. I wish I found this before I traveled! It would have saved me a lot of research! :P 

Last Night in Shanghai

At last, it is my last night here in Shanghai. I'm really going to miss it here! :( My trip has been amazing and super fun. I'm going to take back with me a lot of new experiences and new perspectives on life. I'm going to miss everything about this city......all the partying, all the cool little streets, all the dirty alleys, all the long metro rides, all the scary cab rides, all the insanely cheap street markets, all the stuffy un-air conditioned malls, all the great foods, all the dirty foods, all the pretty girls, not so much the ugly ones, all the great little talks with my close-knit cousins, all the big family dinners, all the new things I experienced, all the senses I revisited. Most importantly, I will miss the place and my family here.

Shanghai is an amazing city. The key word to describe the overall vibe is Culture. It is all its own. It is the most exciting and most dynamic city I've visited. People here have their own way of doing things. There are many outside influences that melt those perspectives into their world, but they do their own thing. The city has character, personality, and it pioneers. 

Shanghai doesn't fuck around either. The rich here are flamboyantly rich and the poor here are mortally destitute. It is very Darwinian and cut throat and it shows in the way people do things here. It is still backwards in a sense but progress here is swift and noticeable. It is completely different from Hong Kong in the way that it is not as sterile. Shanghai doesn't feel like a big shopping mall/bank/restaurant. It is completely different from Vancouver, because Shanghai is a metropolis and a true world class city. The good old 604 is a countryside next to the mega 21. Honestly, it is way cooler city than both. 

Shanghai has something for everyone. An artist, a photographer, a bartender, a singer, a businessmen, a congressman, a pimp, a John. The city is so big now, everybody wants to come and have a piece of it. Only 1/3 of the approximate 30 million people are true Shanghainese locals. 30 million total. That's a Canada. The rest of the people are foreigners and Chinese from other provinces trying to get rich in the largest city in the world. It is a place everyone needs to visit once in their lifetime, not to experience what was China, but what China will become. 

Even though I was not born in Shanghai nor have I ever lived here long enough to call it a home, it is most definitely my second one. And each time I come back, I take away something different and something new. It is like a reflection of myself, over the years. My perspectives on the city and on my life. I doubt I'll ever want to give up living in beautiful Canada, but I think I will always need to visit Shanghai. 

I will keep on updating after I get back to Vancouver. It seems resources on Shanghai gets outdated pretty quickly because the city is in such flux and development. I will try my best to give you my local experience. Best thing to do is, to invite me on your next trip to Shanghai so we can explore the city together. :)

-Edward

P.S. In case you were wondering, the photo above is of my grandma and grandpa shortly after they got married. She was 25 and he was 27. 

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Chinglish Hilarity

My cousin sent me this image he took while staying at a hotel in Tibet. The mis-translations are priceless!!

Sorry about the lack of updates of late. I've been staying at my two other cousin's house recently so I haven't been able to access my laptop and my pics. Plus, I've been simply having way too much fun! Will update more when I get back in 2 days. I'm starting to miss Shanghai already :( Its such an awesome city. 

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The Village of Tong Li, a Chinese Venice of Sorts

This past Monday, I had a chance to tag along with my aunt and uncle on their school reunion trip to a village 90km away from Shanghai called Tong Li. Yes, reunion trip. So a bus full of old people then. But nevermind.

The village is a water town, full of canals, lakes, and streams. People there travel by canal boats and of course, they cater to tourists with open arms. The main attraction there is to see the way people lived hundreds of years ago. Actually, the way wealthy people lived, because they were all old houses that belonged to wealthy businessmen, government ministers, and other peoples of fortune. So it's like travelling to Europe and tour old castles then.

I will update more on this trip when I come back to Canada. In fact, I plan on expanding a lot of these posts when I have the proper computing power to go through all my pictures thoroughly. I've captured about 1600 frames so far and it takes me as long as 3 minutes just to export a raw file into a JPG on this POS HP laptop. I hope to turn this blog into a resource for travelers to Shanghai and China. Right now, just enjoy my pictures :D

Thanks for all your comments on blogspot and facebook! It makes me happy when I read them! :)

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The Shanghai Science and Technology Museum.... Field Trip.....

Of all the days I picked to go to the Shanghai Science World, I picked the day when 50+ schools from all over China also decided to go to the museum. The screams and hollers of 10,000 kids, parents, chaperons, and teachers was a culture shock. At lunch time, everyone decided to picnic inside the building. Chubby kids gorged themselves on nothing but chips, chocolates, ice cream and other junk foods. Garbage and litter everywhere. Kids roamed free and wild. They sure were happy though. I'll let the pictures do the talking. It is something you'll never quite experience outside of China. I'm glad I was there!

One more thing. Freedom is a funny thing. I've never seen people more free to act the way they are, free to appear how they appear, and free to be who they are, than in China. You can see it in the children. You can see it in the adults. There is much social faux pas and indecencies in China that we would never get away with in Canada. We Canadians are self conscious, vain, and judgmental. We scowl at strangers who stand too close to us. We expect a thank you when we hold a door open. We care about appearing nice to the rest of the world. A lot of self imposed courtesies that doesn't really exist here. It is chaotic, yet the society works. It is rude yet without true malice. It is not perfect, but it is improving noticeably every time I visit China. There is a naive innocence about not caring or not realizing how others view you. I'm not speaking for all locals here of course, there are many who already think like us. But I think perhaps with more social conformity and etiquette, the less "free" one becomes? Should societies strive to be a Japan or a Britain, where everyday minutiae adhere strictly to invisible social norms and deviations will be met with prejudice and judgement? Should a population be homogenized culturally and behaviorally like that? Wouldn't it be liberating to just fuck social conventions and almost do whatever the hell you want? Well you can here, sort of. You can spit, you can curse, you can bump into people accidentally without saying sorry, you can run red lights, you can not wash your hands, and you can picnic inside a museum. Welcome to China. 

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China is a Photographer's Paradise, in more ways than one.

Other than having a lot of subjects to take pictures of, the local camera industry is pretty booming! There is a 7 story building, filled with camera gear! New and used. Check out this link for the address and other details. http://www.photo.net.ph/blogalicious/main/where-to-buy-your-cameras-gear-and-photographic-equiptment-in-shanghai-china/ The building is called Xing Guan Photography Equipment Building. It's at the corner of Luban Road and Xietu Road. Exit the Luban Road metro station at exit #1 and turn left. Keep walking for about a block and you can't miss it!

It is pretty awesome. The first two floor sells new cameras and lenses. All the big brands are there. Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Olympus, Panasonic. 2nd floor are bags, tripods and accessories such as grips and filters. Higher floors included used gear, professional lighting, soft boxes, and even photoshop learning centers!! The used stores are real candy stores. They have everything under the sun. 1930's original Leica's, TLR Rolleis, large format accordion style cameras, an array of medium format systems, simply a ton of used and rare items for sale. Prices aren't cheap, they are subject to haggling, but the selection is amazing. This is a must see for any camera enthusiast coming to Shanghai. 

I haven't done much shopping in Shanghai overall, but I've scored quite a bit of camera gear so far. I bought 2 camera straps off of taobao.com, which is like a chinese ebay only way better (no auctions, store fronts, all purchases are escrow), as well as a Pentax K -> EOS AF confirm adapter. Today, at the Xing Guan building, I bought a self-portrait lens+mirror for my fuji instax 7 camera for $9, a Benro carbon fiber tripod with ball head, and 6 rolls of black and white 120 medium format film for about $7. Awesome!

I'm pretty happy about the Benro tripod. The brand is a Chinese copy of the Gitzo high end tripods. The build quality of Benro is superb, all the knobs feel velvety smooth and the carbon fiber legs feel very solid and high quality. It is fairly light for a medium sized tripod. And it includes a fairly decent ball head as well. It can hold my 5D2 with no issues at all. All for $175CAD. Pretty awesome I think! 

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My "New" Niece :DD

One of my main reasons for coming to Shanghai is to visit my new niece! She is one month and one day old today!! Her birthday is on February 26th. A Pisces then. Just like someone else I know <3. As you can see, she is soooo cute! Super duper tiny. And never makes a noise. My cousin and his wife says she almost never cries. She is healthy and smiling. I am so happy for them!!

I only know her Chinese name, but I am trying to see if I can give her an English name. :)

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An Inside Look at the Shanghai Expo Convention Center: Part II

Aside from all the huge halls, weird meeting rooms, and decadent communist (oxymoron?) extravagance, the most impressive part of the building is the roof. Not only is it green, it is covered with solar panels, supplying energy for the entire building, and having enough left over to put back into the grid! Plus the view is pretty amazing up there too! :)

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